Greater Cumbrae

Largs in a wee town about a 15 minute bus ride from Wemyss Bay.

A large sailing community, a viking center and ferry were about it. And a couple of food stores.  Wemyss by has a chippy shop, a petrol station store, a cafe and, at the time, a butcher who held the title of “Best Haggis in Scotland” so one has to go to Largs for any real supplies.

The Haggis competition is held every 2 years and no one has ever repeated.  I bought some to cook up and it was sublime.  Mild and not too peppered with a perfect pop to the oats. Good for a couple meals. But by the time I finished it was the second best as they new completion had been held.  Won best of the West though.

The ferry to Greater Cambrae (Little Cumbrae is not accessible except by private boat and is, I believe, uninhabited) takes about 10 minutes, every 10 minutes and then there is a bus to take you to Millport, the only town.

Crocodile Rock is a big deal here.

And how this obviously long abandoned church hasn’t been gobbled up I don’t know.

The island, pop.1400, is quite nice and the walk to the highest point, The Glaidstane 127 metres (417 ft) is only about a 2-3 mile walk. Lovely day and feeling better than the past few days I decided to give it a go.

You go past a newer Catholic church with a great name. Our Lady of Perpetual Succour

Then a Church of Scotland Cathedral of the Isles.

As I walked through the arch I was nearly bowled over by the pungent scent of wild garlic, the leaves of which can be used in cooking.  This cathedral is only about 160 years old and looks just like many of the great ones I’ve seen in miniature complete with cloisters. Very attractive and tranquil with a small college (education similar to US high school) where one can rent accommodations and a 123′ high spire (only a couple feet short of the island’s highest point) that was a useful marker for my wander.

After strolling the cloister I entered via the Lady Chapel

I counted 5-6 organs, harpsichord and pianos under protective blankets that indicated a musical community. The main church is very unexpected for so small (100 or so seats) a cathedral.

After spending some time in quiet contemplation and then talking with some of the staff on break I headed up to The Glaidstane, (no spellchecker not Gladstone) past a cattle farm and with some picturesque views.

The high peaks in the rear is the Sleeping Warrior on Arran

This peak had a couple of benches and where I met Evelyn who later sent me a photo of her favorite view and a submarine.  Faslane, officially HM Naval Base Clyde it is the Royal Navy’s main base in Scotland and home to it’s nuclear deterrent, Trident, and hence controversial to some, is just up the river.

The round trip was about 6 miles and very relaxing.  When I walk like this I can smell the gorse and manure, hear the birds in full throat and watch the coney’s scamper away at my sudden intrusion. I had a nice day on another island.

Back to Largs for supplies and then with bag & daypack bulging and another 944 steps.